Nile Cruise – DAYS 3 – 8
We’ve always been very sceptical about cruise ships largely based from seeing these huge floating hotels from our small sailing boat constantly running their engines and pumping out fumes into the harbours of small towns. Periodically they would spew out numerous coach loads of tourists all heading to the same picturesque or historical sight. Why would you want to do that? Well, If you want to see Egypt It’s probably the best way.
Getting about isn’t easy. Driving, in Cairo in particular, would be unthinkable. Walking means constant hassle even if the weather is comfortable. Even hiring a taxi has it’s own concerns. But on a cruise you are escorted everywhere, transport is usually there and waiting for you when you are ready to return. And the big plus are the excellent tour guides (shout out for the wonderful Waleed)
which you definitely need if you are going to get the best out of what is probably a once in a lifetime experience.
Because everything is so well organised you get to see far more than would probably be possible if you were going it alone. Maybe the downside is that you don’t get chance to linger in local bars and restaurants but, quite frankly, I wouldn’t want to. I can’t speak for all Nile boats , of course, but ours had a lovely top deck with pool and a comfortable bar to linger in during down time. The restaurant, although perhaps a bit regimented, was friendly and fun, the food varied and as good as can be expected for buffet style dining.
Internet access is not great hence why these blog entries will probably all come out at once. After a bit of frustration it was actually quite nice to just accept you’re not going to be able to post all your wonderful pictures on Facebook or whatever your personal obsession is (go on, admit it, we’ve all got one these days). They can wait.
So, at the risk of boring you rigid, these are now mine.
Tuesday Day 3
If I’m honest the Valley of the Kings wasn’t at all what I was expecting from the movies. For a start I didn’t expect a wally wagon to take us to the tombs! Somehow I don’t think Howard Carter used this particular mode of transport.
It was none the less awesome for that, though. The Pyramid shape of the mountain is why the Kings picked this site.
Going inside the tombs, though, is what it’s all about, some of them with colours as rich as the day they were painted. You’re not allowed to take pictures inside without a licence so here’s an unattributed one off the internet to give the feel.
Not far from the Valley of the Kings is the much restored Temple of Hatshepsut. Ruling Egypt in her own right she made the mistake of not finishing off the boy king she usurped. When he eventually succeeded her he was a bit miffed about it and erased every image of her he could find and effectively denying her an afterlife. Thankfully this image of her has been restored and copied onto the huge statues of the temple.
Wednesday Day 4 – two temple day only spoiled by the site of maltreated horses used for pulling carriages to transport tourists to the temple at Edfu. Please don’t use them unless this improves.
Morning visit (by taxi) to the Temple of Horus at Edfu.
The Inner Sanctum where only the High Priest and the Pharaoh could enter
Sitting at the feet of the falcon god Horus
Then, after an afternoon sail, an evening visit to the Ptolemic Temple of Kom Ombo which was beautifully lit and very atmospheric.
The carvings were incredibly intricate. Imagine them with the colours still intact!
Thursday Day 5 was spent in Aswan and included a visit to the Dam which I won’t bore you with because it doesn’t take a very interesting picture but hey, if Dams and engineering are your thing don’t let me put you off.
What was a bit special, though, was the boat ride on Lake Nasser – the vast reservoir created by the dam – to the Temple of Isis on Philae Island which was dismantled when the area was flooded by the dam and moved to a higher island near by.
More boats in the evening with a short sail at sunset on a felucca on the Nile itself
Friday Day 6 – 4:30am coach pick up for a 3 hour drive to Ramses II Temple of Abu Simbel and worth every minute. Simply stunning.
The Pharaoh’s beautiful First Wife and Queen Nefertari. And me 🙂
Saturday Day 7 cruising back towards Karnak so a very welcome day at leisure on the boat. It didn’t stop the salesmen trying their luck, mind.
Sunday Day 8 – another two temple day, this time two close together and joined by an avenue of sphinxes about 3 km long and still being excavated.
The largest of the two is Karnak a short coach trip from the dock at Luxor. Largely built for Ramses II, he of Abu Simbel fame, although started earlier, he very much dominates the temple along with the extraordinary rams head sphinxes.
The masterpiece of the temple is the Hypostyle Hall and something that defies still photography. So impressive in its grandeur is it that it became the inspiration for Notre Dame in Paris.
Ramses II and his Queen Nefertari are there again in Luxor Temple
But there’s also another Pharaoh well known to modern visitors: Tutankhamun and his young Queen
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